Schwa-ha-ha-ha

First things first...I just found out yesterday that it looks like my chemo clinical here in Chicago isn't really working for me. That said, I will be headed back to Detroit soon to try another kind of chemo in the next couple of weeks. That's the cancer part. How will that affect my eating plan? Well, I have about 20 tables that I have been lax about writing up. I'll get right on that. Plus, I have at least 10 places that I still want to hit, so I'm hoping to be able to have a small eating frenzy before I head back across state lines. I will likely have to finish writing in Michigan, so keep checking back even after I've left. I'll let you know when I'm out of nonsense to spew. Have I mentioned that I gained 12 pounds since I started this craziness? I blame you.

Back to business. Last weekend I finally got a table at a place I have been losing my mind about since I got to Chicago. Schwa is a 26 seat restaurant on Ashland which is literally across from a tire store. When I arrived, the cab driver said "I think it might be closed." This underground supper club is very hot right now (as it has been for years) and it is impossible to get a reservation. That is for a couple of reasons. First, there is no staff at this place. There are a handful of chefs, who create the meals and serve the food themselves. The chef proprietor is a James Beard Award nominee for Best Chef in 2010, and has been featured extensively in the press, including a huge spread on him and the restaurant in GQ magazine. Check out the VERY interesting article located on this page from the restaurant's website: http://schwarestaurant.com/#press. "Schwa" is a word that these childhood buddies used to describe something very cool and chill.

Diners are offered a 3 course or 9 course prix fixe menu and the place is BYOB (Hallelujah for market-priced liquor). Because of the size, they NEVER return your phone calls. I quite literally called EVERY DAY for 3 months trying to get a table. I'm a stalker. You knew that. The other reason which makes this place reservationally-challenged, in my opinion, is that I think some of these guys might be partaking in some herbal supplements which make them more relaxed than the average restaurant proprietors. Now that I've had my table, smoke 'em if you've got 'em.

The room is very cool (with a patina ceiling, exposed lightbulbs dipped in aluminum (?) which are half art, half function, and very interesting ombre spray painting on the walls. I'll mention, right off the bat, that this place is clearly much cooler than me. One of the "front of the house" guys (the chef-proprietor's kid brother??) sat us and had to ask what kind of water we wanted three times. It was a later reservation, and I'm certain he had found ways to "relax" a number of times throughout the evening before we arrived. Once, he went out front for a few minutes and Dana asked what he was doing out there upon his return. His reply? "Magic." Perfect.

As with many BYOB spots, we had too much vodka and wine (the chefs even joined us in a couple of shots. Yes, I know I am too old for that). Whoops. The mood in the place supported our inebriation. We made friends with nearby diners (Hi Sarah!) and after around 11, the girls at the table behind us started doing cartwheels in the small aisle. The chef noted, "My restaurant has turned into a circus." That vibe was only supported by the loud soundtrack, which included the chefs favorite bands, including Eminem, Beastie Boys, Jill Scott and Atmosphere. Plus, if you had to go to the bathroom, your "waiting room" was in the kitchen, so you could talk up the chef who was preparing your next course. I love that crap.

Now to the food. The nine courses sampled had some highlights and lowlights. Too many of the courses were overseasoned, and the celery panna cotta dessert was just too weird for me. Some of the sauces, however,were truly something to write home about, and the tagliatelle with huckleberry was REALLY special. I must say though that each and every course was creative, thoughtful, artistic, and invented with true culinary skill. The flavor profiles may be above the heads of many diners, but the craft behind their inception cannot be denied.

All that said, this was the most fun I have EVER had at a "fine dining" restaurant, hands down. Many "f-bombs" were dropped. Microgreens were scattered "whimsically". One chef, while describing a dish, offered that they finished the dish by "shaving some truffle on that shit." Good food without pretension cannot be overstated. I LOVED it. Leave your folks at home...not that you'll ever be able to get a reservation...